When in comes to buying your first Hermes bag, eventually a question pops up: which leather to choose? There are popular options like Togo and Clemence, there are some vintage leathers which claim to be scratch-resistant, such as Barenia or Fjord.

Hermes have used over 50 types of leather, and each has its own name and features. Therefore, it is normal to feel a bit lost when choosing a perfect bag for your Hermes collection. We at Bagaholic created this ultimate Hermes' leather guide covering all leathers used by Hermès, whether discontinued or in production, to help you navigate through the world of utter luxury.

What Are Hermes Bags Made Of?

Starting as a saddle-making firm for rich aristocrats almost 200 years ago, Hermes now provides the best luxury items which are recognized as masterpieces. The fashion house still cares about every step of manufacturing, starting with excellent supplies of skins. It's not a secret that Hermes owns several tanneries across the globe to ensure the quality of their products. No wonder, each leather requires special treatment and care. From popular calfskin to exotic crocodile leather (directly from the Nile valley), Hermes offers a wide range of materials.

The most significant characteristic of all Hermes purses is their high quality. For Hermes, leather is not just material to create their goods, it their base for pricing and canvas for their artisans.

Let's learn more about them! For your convenience they are divided into groups according to leather type. Inside every group you will find several kinds, each with its unique characteristics.

Group 1 - Calfskin

The most extensive group of Hermès leathers is calfskin. The variety of options may seem overwhelming, but it's important to understand that each type of leather is distinctly unique! We will explore their appearance, how they feel to the touch, and discuss some typical characteristics of each kind.

Togo Leather

Browse Hermes Togo leather bags on Fashionphile

Togo is the queen of leathers used in Hermes bags manufacturing. So far it's been the most popular Hermes leather and there are solid reasons behind it.

Introduced in 1997 during Hermès' Year of Africa, Togo leather is named after the African nation of Togo. 

Browse Hermes Togo leather bags on Fashionphile

Made from baby calfskin, it has grained texture, although smooth when you touch it, and is crafted to be gliding under the fingers (maybe, that's the reason for the global addiction to Birkin). However, some fashionistas consider Togo to be heavy-looking because of the grains. This version is prone to scratching and keeps shape very well.

Browse Hermes Togo leather bags on Fashionphile

Togo is often mixed with another Hermes leather, Clemence. You can differentiate between these leathers by looking at grains and veins. Togo grains are smaller and it might have veins, as the Birkin 25 Cuivre on the picture above.

Overall, Togo is a lightweight leather that keeps its shape well and is built to last a lifetime. However, you should be prepared for some visible wear and tear on the corners, especially with bags in brighter colors.

Barenia Leather

Browse Hermes Barenia leather bags on Fashionphile

First used in Hermes handbag production the 1970s, Barenia is a legendary type of leather that has been used by Hermes for centuries. Actually, it was one of the materials the fashion house used for their saddles so it's extremely durable!

Originally tanned near the village of Barr in Alsace, which inspired its name, this leather has become emblematic of Hermès. It is frequently hailed as 'magical

This is an smooth uncolored leather that develops patina and darkens over time. 

A purse made of Barenia is incredibly smooth and soft with a little gloss. When you touch the material, you feel as if you were touching wax or butter. This is due to the tanning process of this type of leather. 

The process of tanning includes two stages. First, the leather is double-tanned in chrome and vegetable dyes. Next, it's saturated in a mix of oils over several weeks, causing the leather to soak up all the oils, which creates that “magic” scratch resistance (raindrops will also eventually evaporate). The leather may appear mottled or streaked.

Even though the most popular Barenia color is natural gold (Fauve), it is also produced in Noir, Ebene, Olive and Indigo. Despite the color, this exquisite leather always features the contrasting white stitching.

How to recognize Hermes Barenia leather

Barenia bags feature an unfoiled blind stamp. So, when you encounter a smooth leather in its natural color that resembles box leather and has an unfoiled blind stamp, it's unmistakably Barenia.

Advantages

One of the standout advantages of Barenia leather is its iconic color, closely resembling the Hermes signature shade akin to Gold. This aspect alone makes an Hermes bag crafted from Barenia leather highly desirable.

Additionally, despite its open pores and lack of color application (a sharp contrast to leathers like Togo or Clemence, which are treated with a layer of paint), Barenia boasts an exceptional characteristic: water droplets can evaporate from it without leaving any trace behind. Sounds like a Louis Vuitton lover dream, isn't it?

Disadvantages

When it comes to disadvantages, keep in mind two things when choosing a bag from Barenia leather: it gets darker at places you touch it most and develops scratches relatively easily.

Barenia Faubourg leather (Heritage)

Browse Hermes Barenia leather bags on Fashionphile

Introduced in 2016, Barenia Faubourg leather bears a visual similarity to Togo leather, featuring a small printed grain. Like the classic Barenia, it possesses a slight sheen and gradually darkens over time.

Unfortunately, Barenia Faubourg was discontinued between end of 2021 and start of 2022. Despite this, it is still easier to find signature Hermès handbags like the Birkin or Kelly crafted in Barenia Faubourg than in the original Barenia leather.

Much as the original Barenia, this leather also offers a few colors, including Cacao, Noir and Ebene 

How to recognize Hermes Barenia leather

Recognizing this Hermes leather it simple: it look like Togo with an unfoiled blind stamp.

Advantages

More scratch-resistant than the original Barenia. It's also easier to find in resale!

Disadvantages

The original drawbacks of Barenia leather apply to Barenia Faubourg as well: It also darkens in the areas where it is touched the most.

Box Calf Leather (Heritage)

Browse Hermes Box leather bags on Fashionphile

Named after Joseph Box, a shoe maker from England back in the 1800s, boxcalf is the oldest Hermes leather.

If you're in search of leather that feels smooth to the touch while also giving your bag a well-defined shape, consider a purse crafted from Box leather. It might appear delicate, but in reality, it's quite sturdy and long-lasting.

Calfskin sheen gives any bag model an elegant and feminine look. The only real enemy of the Box leather is rain, as it might leave marks on the purse.

The production of Box leather has varied, with periods of more and less availability over recent years. It's typically available in timeless, neutral colors. You may encounter vintage Hermes Birkin and Kelly bags in this range of classic shades:

• Black
• Bleu Jean
• Bleu Saphir
• Bleu Electrique
• Brique
• Rouge H
• Rouge Viff
• Rouge Piment
• Vert Fonce

Advantages

Structured silhouette with the allure of a vintage look, sturdy leather.

Disadvantages

It's afraid of raindrops and scratches, so you'll need to handle the bag with extra care unless it's black.

Chamonix Leather

Chamonix leather, often regarded as the twin sister of Hermès’ Box leather, features a distinct matte finish. Named after a picturesque village nestled in the mountains of one of France’s most beautiful regions, Chamonix, this leather is celebrated for its unique aesthetic and qualities. Compared to Box leather, Chamonix is noted for its enhanced resistance to scratches and marks, making it a more durable choice for everyday use. However, just like its counterpart, Chamonix leather requires careful maintenance to preserve its elegance and quality.

In sum, Chamonix leather offers a beautiful alternative to those who admire the classic appeal of Box leather but desire a material that is slightly more forgiving to the rigors of daily use. Its matte finish provides a unique touch to Hermès’ collection, blending durability with timeless elegance.

Advantages

It's more resistant to scratches and marks compared to Box leather, maintaining its pristine appearance over time with proper care.

Disadvantages

While it is more resistant to scratches, Chamonix leather still requires regular maintenance to address any potential damage from water and to keep it in excellent condition. Bags and accessories made from this material should be gently wiped down with a dry cloth and should not be exposed to water, as moisture can affect the leather’s texture and color.

Tadelakt Leather (Heritage)

Tadelakt, introduced by Hermès in 2007, is frequently confused with Box and Chamonix leathers due to their similar appearance—they all have a smooth texture and a luxurious sheen. The distinctive quality of Tadelakt, however, is its remarkably smooth and soft touch, which can leave one questioning if it's leather at all. This tactile sensation is the result of meticulously processed fine grains that remain invisible on the surface. Unique to Tadelakt is also its potential opalescent sheen, setting it apart from other Hermès leathers.

Although Tadelakt is commonly used for small leather goods due to its delicate nature, Hermès occasionally crafts bags with this attractive yet sensitive material. You can even find some Kelly and Constance bags!

Advantages

Its ability to maintain its structure over time, exemplified by its use in the revered Kelly Sellier bags. Its smooth finish gives it a sophisticated appearance that's synonymous with luxury.

Disadvantages

Tadelakt is susceptible to scratches, similar to Hermès' Swift leather, demanding a degree of caution in handling to keep the surface pristine.

Hermes Ardennes Leather (Discontinued)

Ardennes leather, known for its durability and resilience, was one of Hermès' hallmark materials, sourced from the northern part of France, which lent the leather its name. Recognized as one of the most robust leathers offered by Hermès, Ardennes was celebrated for its ability to withstand various weather conditions, making it an excellent choice for those seeking longevity in their luxury items.

Unfortunately, Hermès discontinued the production of bags in Ardennes leather in the early 2000s, rendering Birkin and Kelly models made from this material as coveted vintage finds today. The cessation of using Ardennes has made these bags highly sought after on the vintage market, celebrated for their timeless appeal and sturdy nature.

Advantages

The advantage of Ardennes leather is its significant resilience and structured appearance. Bags crafted from Ardennes leather are known for maintaining their shape over time, resisting water and scratches better than many other types of leather.

Disadvantages

However, the downside to Ardennes leather is its susceptibility to the elements. Despite its robust nature, the leather can show signs of wear when exposed to harsh conditions without proper care. Additionally, since Hermès no longer produces new bags with this material, the scarcity has made existing pieces more expensive and harder to find.

Hermes Epsom Leather

An Epsom Sellier Kelly 28

Introduced in 2004 to replace Courchevel, Epsom leather is renowned for its ability to maintain the shape of any bag due to its rigid and grained texture, which, interestingly, is not natural but a result of meticulous craftsmanship. The Epsom exterior often resembles a laminated surface and is highly durable, making it a popular choice for Sellier models of Kellys and Birkins.

This is one of the most popular Hermes leathers, alongside Togo and Clemence.

Advantages

The durability of Epsom surpasses other Hermes calfskin varieties, and it is notably easy to clean and maintain, ideal for everyday use.

Disadvantages

On the downside, because Epsom's grain is stamped rather than naturally occurring, it can wear away at frequently contacted points, and unfortunately, these wear areas cannot be refurbished. This particular limitation may affect the long-term visual appeal and structural integrity of the bag in these specific areas.

Hermes Swift Leather

Very pleasant and smooth when you touch it. Although at first sight it may seem that this material is plain, it actually has micro grains. Incredible softness of Swift makes it easy to develop scratches, so it's not designed for clumsy and careless people. When carrying a bag made from Epsom, extra attention is required all the time.

Hermes Evergrain Leather

A simply irresistible leather - it's not afraid of water and isn't easily damaged. Despite grains all over the surface, it is soft to the touch. Another version is called Evercalf, and it's just an embossed variant of Evergrain, less prone to water and scratches. Both materials aren't rigid, as it often happens with embossed leather.

Group 2 - Buffalo

This group consists of only one kind, but it is definitely worth mentioning. There used to be several buffalo sorts, but some of them are now discontinued (like Dalmatian) or are only used for small leather goods (like Gala).

Hermes Buffalo Leather

Though being fairly soft, it's known for incredible resistance to external and environmental factors. Spots or scratches are not likely to appear. In case you want to check its strong fibers, Buffalo is also flame resistant (but we actually hope you wouldn't try burning Hermes)! Despite the grainy texture, the surface is relatively smooth and can be cleaned with no special cloth. One of interesting features of the Buffalo leather is that it develops quite a unique color with time.

Group 3 - Goat leather

This group consists of two kinds only with quite similar characteristics. Bags made of them are the most favorite among Hermes fans, and you will easily understand why.

Hermes Chevre de Coromandel Leather

If you don't want to be scared of damaging your precious Hermes bag, this material is exactly what you need. Besides, it's soft to the touch and very lightweight (that means you can carry more stuff in it). Women like Chevre de Coromandel as a bag crafted from it can be used on a daily basis and become one of your most long-lasting designer bags.

Hermes Chevre Mysore Leather

Fashionistas often say that if Chevre de Coromandel were a wife, then Mysore would be a mistress. Of course, this is just a joke, but it's hard not to fall in love when looking at its refined, clearly visible grains. Chevre Mysore has the same characteristics as its sister: lightweight, damage-resistant and soft.

Group 4 - Bull leather

Hermes Clemence Leather

Hermes Negonda Leather

This leather is used only for Garden Party bags. All purses made from the Negonda leather are absolutely water-resistant. Bags look ultra matte and have different colors than all the other items in the Hermes collection.

Group 5 - Suede

Hermes Doblis (Grizzly) Suede

One of most beautiful and unique Hermes materials. It gives a stunning velvety look and it is extremely difficult to find new items made from it (available only as pre-loved in secondhand shops). Doblis requires delicate care: keep your hands spotlessly clean and beware of scratches. Suede is a challenge to maintain and it's not your choice if you live in rainy areas. We would say that Doblis is not crafted for everyday wear, it's more a collector's purse. Doblis was extensively used on vintage Hermes bags only and is now discontinued.

Group 6 - Cowhide

Hermes Fjord Leather

This sort features gorgeous matte finish. The surface of the leather is grained, but grains are much wider and flatter than in any of the above-mentioned types. It makes the material is soft and smooth. Fjord is resistant to water splashes, and that's one more reason to adore it.

Hermes Vache Leather

Another classic leather in the Hermes family, made of cowhide. Bags manufactured from this material are quite delicate: exterior tends to darken with time, damages appear way too quick, it is vulnerable to rain, and spots will appear after contact with water. Nevertheless, extremely pleasant to the touch, Vache looks gorgeous with its smooth finish.

Hermes Vache Hunter Leather

Originally Vache Hunter was only used to trim bags, but since 2017 more and more Hermes bag models made completely from it have appeared on the market. It's incomparably soft material with tiny grains that gives the items a little sheen. It can handle water, but it scratches easily.

Hermes Vache Liegee Leather

A bag made of this sort of leather will last you forever. Vache Liegee is the thickest and the most durable in the entire Hermes collection. It's not only practical, but has a beautiful grained surface, too. It was released in 2004 to replace discontinued Ardennes.

What Are Some of the Most Unique Leathers Used to Make Hermes Bags?

Apart from ordinary materials, the Hermes fashion house is also known for making bags of rare leathers. They are not only hard to get but also require infinite patience while working with them. Yet, the result is usually stunning and the bag can cost several times more than usually (if you want to learn more about the prices on Hermes items, check out our guide on How Much Do Hermes Bags Cost? From The Cheapest To The Most Expensive). Those goods are crafted for VIP clients in limited numbers. That's how the famous waiting lists appeared. Let's learn about some exotic Hermes leathers!

Hermes Lizard Leather

Bags made of this leather demand high and proper maintenance: avoid wearing them in wet weather, use only in perfect conditions and give the items a regular rest. Its naturally grained texture is what makes celebrities and VIP clients fall for it. Cells are tiny and of the same size throughout the bag. Lizard is extremely valuable and rare, and can be both with shiny or matte finish.

Hermes Alligator Leather

One of the most precious skins in history, with unique manufacturing process.  The material is polished with agate to create this special finish. You won't find bags of large sizes made of Alligator, as it's hard to find a piece of skin big enough to make a whole bag out of it. The surface is smooth, much smoother that Crocodile (because alligators live in fresh water, not salty). Only legendary models of Hermes bags (Birkin and Kelly) are crafted from it. When you look at alligator bags you can spot a long scar exactly in the middle with cells scale becoming smaller closer to sides.

Hermes Crocodile Leather

Some people think that crocodile and alligator leathers are almost the same. Well, when it comes to details, you can spot the difference. First, bigger purses can be manufactured from crocodile. Second, although cells are almost of the same size as in alligator skin, it's not as smooth (because animals live in salty water). Third, crocodile skin has little pores that can be seen in each cell. All cells are approximately of the same size. Bags made of Hermes crocodile leather can have shiny or matte effect.

Hermes Ostrich Leather

Fashionistas love it for many reasons. Bags made from ostrich not only have an incredible design with skin holes throughout, but they are also easily maintained and durable. If wet, no special care is needed, just wipe it. After contact with human skin ostrich becomes darker. Exposed to light (both natural and artificial), the colour can fade. But with proper care such a purse can last for many years.

Does Hermes Offer Animal-Friendly Versions of Their Leather Handbags?

As you can see, Hermes has plenty of interesting choices when it comes to leather. But our Hermes leathers guide wouldn't be ultimate if we don't mention other Hermes materials. What are they? Are there any non-leather versions for people who still want to have a luxury purse but care about animals? Yes, Hermes manufactures its goods from plenty of materials and even some iconic models can be found in animal-friendly versions! Let's see what they are!

Hermes Canvas

Canvas is one of the most widely spread and highly durable materials used by many high-end brands, and Hermes is not an exception. Mostly tote bags are crafted from canvas, but you can find some legendary purses, like Birkin, in canvas, too. Don't expect it to be cheap though, prices are still astronomical.

Hermes Crinoline

Although discontinued, this material can be found when you're looking for a second-hand item. Durable and practical, Crinoline is made of horse hair and hemp. It's a perfect option for bags that need to hold their shape.

Whose Leather Is of Better Quality, Chanel or Hermes?

Buying a luxury bag we expect nothing but excellency, especially for the price asked. The quality of the leather is one of the main factors that's important to fashion lovers. So it's only fair to compare brands to ensure you're getting the best product.

Hermes has been an icon of luxury and style for almost 200 years, and was already known internationally when other fashion houses only started to gain their popularity. It still remains one of the best brands to invest in, because of their special care towards leather used for bags. Here are some reasons why we think Hermes leather quality is excellent and outstanding:

• Hermes owns several tanneries across the globe to ensure constant supply of exclusive materials.
• The fashion house uses leather from selected origins: the Alpine fields, the Florida rivers, Asia and even Australia.
• Only 3-4 bags are produced in one week, the major reason for that is the artisans work with leather very carefully and patiently.
• Leather is never painted, a special dying technique is used to color materials.
• Hermes leathers have different features depending the type. Some of them, as you saw, can be quite delicate. That means, artisans use natural qualities of skins without making them more rigid or durable.
• The Hermes fashion house is the only one so far to offer a bag spa. For a certain amount of money, your purse will be treated with professional care.

If you want to learn more interesting facts about one of the oldest French fashion houses, read our Hermes 101: Everything You Need To Know About Your Favourite Handbag Designer. 

But does it mean that Chanel has lower leather quality and we all need to sell our bags to purchase Hermes as soon as possible? Not at all! Materials used by the two brands are not the same, but both excellent. Yes, Chanel doesn't breed crocodiles in Asia, but their leathers are of the same fine quality as Hermes leathers:

• Only highly skilled artisans work with leather: craftsmen from Spain, Italy and France deal with the best materials.
• Each piece of leather, though stitched by a machine, is cut by hand only.
• Incredible softness of lambskin (the most famous among Chanel leathers) is achieved with a special technique: it gets tanned with the wool remaining on skin. That also creates additional layer of protection, so the bag will age gracefully.
• Leather requires care and attention, because it can be delicate and develop scratches easily. Chanel artisans use natural qualities of the skin for extra protection.
• All Chanel leathers look elegant and flawless, because the fashion house chooses the best source of materials (even during bad seasons).

In fact, it is difficult to choose a winner between Chanel and Hermes leathers. Both brands keep old traditions when it comes to materials, that's why only limited number of purses is released every week. Patience, talent, skills and devotion - that is what makes bags manufactured by Chanel and Hermes iconic and sought after. Different mission, different origin of leather, different style allows us to say that the best leather is the one you personally like from the first touch. And it can be both Hermes and Chanel!

How to Spot a Fake Hermes Bag Just by Looking at Its Leather?

To check authenticity of an Hermes bag one of the things you need to pay attention to you is leather. It's impossible to replicate (at least, in quality). An authentic purse never has any flaws on its surface, leather should hold the shape of each model perfectly. Actually, your hands and nose can help you spot a fake (and that's not a joke). If you feel like you can't stop touching and inhaling the leather, you've got an authentic Hermes item!

If you want to learn more about authenticating Hermes, check our guide on how to spot a fake Hermes Birkin or How To Understand When Your Hermes Purse Was Manufactured: A Complete Guide To Hermes Blind Stamps (With Year Chart).

I hope our Hermes leathers guide was helpful and now you know for sure which Hermes bag you are going to buy - the one made from Togo, Clemence or Swift leather or may be you have fallen for another kind. Do you already own a precious Hermes piece? What is it made of? Share in comments!

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